Leh-Ladakh : Serene and Mesmerizing....

It was 2011, last week of March or April first week when I got a call from my friend that some cheap tickets for Delhi-Leh from 21^st Apr-24^th Apr are available. Flight carrier was Kingfisher Red. I thought fare would be around 14~15K for Delhi-Leh round trip. But I was in for a surprise. The flight Delhi-Leh-Delhi total amount per head was INR 4,839/-. I heard amount and without even checking which days the flight was and even before confirming with my boss for leave, I confirmed it to my friend to book tickets. You can imagine how much cheap this is considering that after that time I could not find a such a deal even though I try every year.

So back to the tour of 2011, we were five people in total, my two friends with their husbands and me single. We booked the flight and started searching for the hotels in Leh. After some searching and comparing prices we found one named Padma Guest House. It is a sweet looking home, with a roof top restaurant, overlooking the magnificent Himalayas. Just looking at the photos of the hotel made me wanted to go there and stay. We phoned and checked the availability, booked three rooms, mailed our IDs and after half hour got confirmation mail regarding room booking and other do’s and don’ts in Ladakh.

After getting all things done regarding travel and stay, me and my friends have to do the most important part of any trip ‘Shopping’. But this time since we were going to Leh, one of the coldest places in India. This shopping has to include clothes required for winters. As most girls around the world have issue regarding clothes, not enough clothes to wear and not enough place to keep them. I too had the same issue. So next day me and my friends went out for shopping, and we did all buy caps, gloves, warm socks, and some beautiful jackets. Once it was done we were ready to give shock to our boss about our planned mass leave from office. As we three were in same department we were sure there would have to be some pleading before, but to our surprise nothing of that sort happened and our leaves were approved. As days came closer we were getting excited for the trip and finally the day came.

Our Kingfisher Red flight was early morning on 21^st  Apr. We got up early got ready, into our taxi and off to Delhi Airport. As many of you know April mornings are not cold in Delhi, so it was no need for us to wear jackets. But we did hand carried our jackets with us into flight as on landing in Leh those were the first things needed. I got onto window seat, once all flight check formalities were done, aeroplane engine fired up, and slowly the plane was taken to runway. This was not my first flight but as always I really love the sound of engine revs. I always feel the excitement of that giant engine guzzling up fuel and generating so much power that it will take us into sky. Once on the runway, engine was fired to maximum sound changed and the plane started to run as fast as anything and just in a blink it was taking off from ground. Its like a kids joyride. Some people do fear flying I know but for me getting into plane and feeling the joy getting into air is something which I am never bored. But then as always once the plane is in sky the flying seems boring. Sometimes I thinks does Superman also feels the same way once he is into his cruising mode during his flights: P.  

Flight to Leh was one hour and 20 mins approx.. Plane got to more height and we were served our breakfast. I really don’t like eating in flights as it is too cumbersome in that little space but it had to be done as we were up early 4 of that morning and were hungry. Just as flight was getting into sleep mode there was an announcement that flight will be reaching Leh in short time. At that moment I thought of looking out the window. Well, looking out of window in flights is nothing exciting as you always see a sea of clouds. But this time it was different and I was in for one hell of a surprise. The moment I saw  out of the window it was breathtakingly beautiful, something which I could have never imagined in my dreams.

The Great Himalayas

Below us were The Great Himalayas, the sight is one to behold. However hard I try my words cannot describe such a beauty, you have to see it for yourself. Just looking at the sight gave me a sense of happiness and calmness. There was a sea of white below us with shades of blue in it, mesmerizing is what I would call it. As far as we could see it was just snow and snow. Not only me but all passengers got excited at the sight and soon there were pictures being clicked, lots and lots of pictures.

Just a simple sight from plane window was so awesome that we really wanted to reach Leh as soon as possible and just entrench ourselves into the beautiful world of which we had just witnessed a peek. As we neared Leh the sight changed from snow clad mountains to barren brown coloured mountains and a river which was running down the terrain like a King Cobra, twisting and turning at its will and king of all around it. The sight was an amazing one, there were brown grounds and mountains with nothing on them and surrounding them were mountains with snow. This was the best sight I had seen till now and it was as best as the one when I saw Indian Ocean for the first time. In between all pictures clicking there was an announcement that shortly we will be reaching Leh airport. Once the plane landed there were some general dos and don’ts in Leh like wear warm clothes, try to breathe deeply, not to run or walk too fast due to low Oxygen. Best one which I liked was ‘Doosro ki madad se pehle apni madad karein’ help yourself first before helping others and this did happen to one of us. I’ll get to it in later part of story.

We put on our jackets and started deboarding plane the weather was looking pleasant without any hint of rain and the sun was shining brightly. My friend’s husband was wearing half jacket and a sweater. She asked him to wear a full jacket but he did not listened instead he put his jacket around her. Helping her in keeping warm not helping himself which he would soon regret. As soon as I stepped out of the plane there was chilly wind blowing although sun was shining at full but it did not had any effect. Leh air was really cold but it was fresh. It was as something which I had never felt for a long time.

Into the airport there were also some dos and don’ts in Leh and Ladakh region - not to walk fast or run, not to drink alcohol, keep warm clothes always on, acclimatize to local weather by relaxing as much as you can. The reason why I am emphasising on these is one of us did not and had to miss the amazing things which we were to enjoy in Leh during our trip. Out of the airport our pick up taxi was waiting.

While driving from airport to our guest house were having an amazing time of feeling the scenic beauty of Leh, Army vehicles, local market and local people going for work. Padma Guest House was into a by lane and we had to walk a small distance to reach it. Entering the guest house it felt like you were going into a home not into a hotel.

Padma Guest House

Once we reached in we met our host and he showed us to our rooms. The rooms were clean, bathrooms were nice and fresh and the best part was there was no TV at that time in room. I always think there should not be TV in hotel rooms and you should only enjoy the time in enjoying the place you visit, not in your hotel room. 

View from room

Going to Leh you also get one more benefit, and that’s the best one, mobiles don’t work there. That is a big relief because I have already felt when you are on leave from office for personal work or for a trip; you are definitely going to get more phone calls during those vacation days compared to normal office days. So we were pretty relaxed on that front also.

Our hotel manager Vicky was very helpful and nice guy. He asked us to change and get fresh and have breakfast. We changed and got to the top of roof for the restaurant and had warm tea and other snacks. Roof top restaurants are always nice to, but this was something different, surrounding us were barren mountains surrounded by snow clad peaks. The wind was cold but not too cold so that we could not enjoy our breakfast and view. After having breakfast all our tiredness was gone and we thought of going for some sightseeing and asked Vicky to arrange a cab for us. But he straight away told us not to take any visits today and asked us to take rest and acclimatise ourselves to the weather and surroundings. He told us that it would be better for us. We were very disappointed hearing this but Vicky told us to that we could take a small walk to nearby market and have a look. He cautioned us again not to walk too fast or run. He also told us that we should not be gone long and should take good sleep today before taking any trips from next day.

As we started for the market we were talking and my friend’s husband said that Vicky was scaring us and there is nothing to worry. He was the same Mr help in plane, still he was in his half jacket and sweater. We barely walked 100 meters when my friend got feeling like vomit and before any of us could say anything, there was vomit painting on road ;). It was not good, we were not carrying any water with us. I went to a shop and asked the shopkeeper for some water, he promptly offered us water, he told we should drink water. After this incident we walked more slowly towards the market. The nearby market was nothing fancy but looked just like any market you go for your shopping. There were restaurants from where there were coming very good smells of food. There were many shops of winter clothes selling jackets, gloves, caps, and many more items. As we were window shopping the weather suddenly started to change and sun was suddenly gone. The chill in the air increased at once and we turned to our guest house before it rained. Two men of our group did not bring two important things gloves and cap, as the chill increased they bought both these things and we started walking back to our rooms.

Just as we reached our guest house it started snowing. This was the first time I was experiencing snowfall and that was amazing. The trip was turning out to be awesome first the snow clad mountains and now snowfall. We took to our rooms and sat in gallery and enjoyed the snowfall. Soon the atmosphere took over us and we all felt dizzy. We all went our rooms and slept, and believe me that was the best sleep I have ever felt. We slept for at least three hours and when I woke up I was feeling pretty fresh and relaxed.

I went to my friend’s room and knocked on the door. My friend opened the door and the sight which I saw was pretty hilarious. Mr helpful was inside his quilt and was wearing cap, gloves, muffler and there was a thermometer in his mouth. Remember I told you he was just wearing a half jacket and a sweater. So now the side effects of Leh were getting onto him. He was having fever 100°, I had carried some Crocin for this kind of emergency only. I went to our room and gave him the medicine. Soon my other friend and his husband came to the room and they too also laughed. It was all of us who were asking him to wear warm jacket but he listened to none and now he was down with fever. After giving him medicine we called our manager and asked him to book a cab for morning, had our dinner and again we slept.

Next day we got up early and I looked out of my window to check on the weather and it was beautiful. The sun was out and there were no snowy clouds. We got ready and I went to my friend’s room to check on her husband if he was Ok. And not to my surprise he was still down with fever. We felt sorry for him as he would not be able to visit any place with us that day. We did our breakfast and only three of us got into cab. Yes my friend stayed behind to take care of her husband, Bhartiya Nari. We all felt bad for them but we had to go so we moved.

Indian Army Hall of Fame

This was our first day and on that day we planned to visit Nimmu Valley. It is a beautiful valley and here river Indus and Zanskar meet. On our way to Nimmu valley we stopped at Indian Army’s Hall of Fame for Kargil War Martyrs. Here there were numerous stories of bravery and sacrifices which our brothers did in fighting with enemy and laid their lives in service of our motherland.

I bowed down to those great sons for keeping us safe and making us proud. Hall of Fame is really a nice gesture and every one should visit it and pay homage to these great warriors. After having seeing the place we were back on road and the scenic beauty was amazing. Mountains were barren without any hint of vegetation on them but still it was very beautiful. I had never seen such a thing in my whole life. The road was good and we were doing good speed. 

After some time we reached Magnetic Hill. It is the place where once you place your vehicle in neutral it will move forward and it seems like climbing on hill although it’s not. is just an optical illusion, still we stopped and there were many cars and tourists in them were getting amazed at the site of shut down vehicle climbing hill.

Magnetic Hill

We clicked some pictures and were back to road for our next stop at Gurudwara Patthar Sahib. It is said that Shri Guru Nanak Dev Ji came to this place, there was a monster living at the hill top, he was outraged at seeing Guru ji and hurled a very big stone towards him, but to his amazement Guru Ji was safe and the stone has a dent of Guru Ji’s body shape. That stone is still there and people come to pray here. Going forward we reached the confluence of two rivers, the sight was astonishing. Don’t believe my words look for yourself.

River Indus & Zanskar Confluence at Nimmu Valley

Next we decided to visit some monasteries and returned to our guest house. It was already lunch time so we had lunch along with our cab driver and carried on our journey.

Thiksay Gompa

When in Ladakh region you are not far away from Buddhist monasteries, we first went on to see Thiksay Gompa. On our way back we went to see the Shey Palace, clicked pictures and since it was getting late we went back to our guest house before it was dark. We went to our hotel and checked on our friend, and still he was not well. That was the end of his trip, doctor was called in afternoon by guest house manager and he gave him medicine and advice to rest. So people who are going to Leh or are planning please do take precaution, cause if you get down with fever or any other issue you will miss the life time opportunity. I would urge you all also not to drink while on the tour to Leh and Ladakh as it is not safe due to low Oxygen in atmospheric air. So we changed had warm and delicious dinner made by our cook and were off to bed for another amazing round of sound sleep J.

Second day we were again three people as one was down on health and his wife remained behind to take care of him. We went to Leh Palace from where you can see Leh City.

View from top of Leh Palace

Leh Palace is beautifully build, the architecture of old palaces, monasteries is pretty amazing while looking in pictures and you will love it even more when you are physically there. From Leh Palace we went to see other monasteries in area and each one was prettier than the other. We also saw school used for shooting in movie Three Idiots. That day we came early because next day we were going to Pangong Lake and it was a long drive of 300 Km and for that we have to leave early. So our cab driver suggested that we should take rest and leave early by 5’o clock next day for Pangong Lake.  We went back to our guest house and there our friend was feeling better that day. We were happy for both of them and told them for next day’s plan for visit to Pangong Lake. At night we had dinner and went to bed early.

Next morning we all got up pretty early and got ready really fast still we could not beat the clock. We were half hour behind our schedule, nonetheless all five of us for the first time on this trip started for Pangong Lake. On the way to Pangong we were to cross Chang La Pass, which is third highest Pass in world. As we moved away from Leh city landscape started to change from barren mountains to snow covered and soon the road too was covered in snow, not that much to cause any issue. We were thoroughly enjoying the view and landscapes. And then as we took a turn on mountain road, we all were amazed, it was a breath-taking site. In front of us was a whole mountain covered in snow. I have never imagined such a thing in my life.It was beautiful and mesmerizing.

On the way to Chang La

As we neared Chang La, snow cover on road increase so much so that at one point I saw a taxi in front of us skid. 

On the way to Chang La; Taxi skid

Further down the road there was a traffic jam. When we checked out, it was due to bus not able to grip properly on ice and was skidding as it moved. There was an army truck and army personal were asking every driver to put snow chains on their vehicles tyres so as to avoid any skidding. It was pretty scary as once you fall down the mountain you will be frozen to death. Luckily everything went well for us and we moved forward and reached Chang La.

Chang La

There is a Chang La baba temple here and also Army Camp site.  Once we crossed, the landscape again changed and there was something more amazing waiting for us. Along the road there was a frozen river and it ran just along the road. My words will never ever be able to describe such a beauty that has to be felt. As Chang La was left behind again the landscape changed and this time back to barren mountains. Seeing such changes you really feel the power of nature. The mountains just looked like taken from painting but they were more beautiful than any human could paint.

On the way to Pangong Tso

Now we were nearing our destination and as I was the one sitting in front I was the first one to observe the lake. I could just see a part of it but I felt the happiness in me increasing.

Pangong Tso

And then finally the moment came and we were at Pangong Tso. The view there was stupendous. The lake was still frozen although a part of it melted and there were birds swimming in. On other side of lake the mountains were so beautiful that I just stood there and felt peace in me. 

Pangong Tso

The sky was clear blue. I have never seen such a clear colour of sky in my life and one should definitely try to see it once. Do you people remember the movie Three Idiots where in the last scene all characters are standing by the lake and Chatur gets a call on his mobile from Mr Wangdu? This is the same lake friends.Well, you will not get any mobile signals at this place. Bollywood always think they are the smarty pants ;) but they are not. Enough of Bollywood back to Pangong Tso, the name is Tibetan which mean “long, narrow, enchanted lake” and believe me the views here will put magic on you and you will feel like staying here. The lake is 134km and extends from India to Tibet. India’s border with China Line of Actual Control Passes through lake and this is again a disputed area between India and China.Yet all that doesn’t have any effect on the beauty and serenity.

After spending time at lake it was time to head back and for sure I wanted to stay for some more time but as we had next day flight we have to return. Since Leh trip I had been to many places some of which range from rafting in Rishikesh, enjoying Taj Mahal to partying in Goa. For me my trip to Leh was the best I had ever taken and I would love to do it again one more time definitely. Ladakh is serene and mesmerizing. It’s a heaven away from the fast paced hectic life we all are living. Leh Ladakh a must visit place for every travel enthusiast.

How did you liked my experience I know it’s a bit long but I could not skip any part of the trip.

All the photos used in this blogpost are being taken by me and my friends.